Sorry it's been so very long! My longest stretch yet! But I have this fun little story that I just wrote for our in country volunteer newsletter and will hopefully be following up with a post about our coral farming project with the kids.
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We’ve all been there. Whether you’ve been serving in Fiji for two
months or coming up on two years, I can just about guarantee that you’ve
experienced a moment like this. It starts, for instance, when you’re sitting
enjoying a nice cup of sugar with a friend when something happens or something
is said that is either: a) surprising, b) confusing, c) urgent, or d) all of
the above. Naturally, this also takes place in rapid Fijian probably at a high
decibel with lots of gesticulation making you wonder if a tidal wave of molten
lava is rapidly descending upon the village when your Fijian catches up to you
and you realize they’re yelling about there being too many flies so we better
hang a plastic bag full of water.
Wait… (you pause with a look of consternation on your face
trying to figure it out but fail miserably)… what? Being that that made no
sense whatsoever you perhaps are hopeful enough to ask for clarification. They
repeat what they were shouting. You sigh and decide to just give up and accept
that you will never know why hanging a plastic bag full of water will have any
relation to the number of flies in the immediate vicinity or why it warranted
apocalyptic shouting and gesturing. These instances happen with varying
frequency for each of us but the real ‘wait what’ situations are the ones in
which you are not simply a bystander to the baffling behavior but rather the
focal point of it.
One fine Sunday I was peacefully zoning out in the back
section of our church during the morning service. It was youth day apparently,
which induced more people to appear in their Sunday best than I even knew we
had living in the village. Naturally, service extended on for another good hour
but I was aware when the preacher had finally reached the last stage and fresh
air was just another minute or two away.
As the man was waxing on about some other thing the people
were doing wrong, the girl (my age) sitting next to me abruptly leans in and
begins to whisper to me in rapid fire Fijian in a very urgent manner. Snapping
out of my reverie, I stared blankly at her not having taken in a word she said,
arched and eyebrow and replied, “a cava??” All the while wondering what the
hell could have happened during the two hours we sat next to each other in
silence to make her absolutely need to speak to me two minutes before we would
be outside and free to speak anyway.
She began whispering at me again with such vehemence that it
sounded like there was a small tank of helium being slowly reprieved of its gas
nearby. Meanwhile everyone in the three rows in front of us and the three rows
behind had stopped what they were doing to listen in and to nod their heads in
agreement (we were sitting in more or less an all women’s section). This time I
picked up what she was saying:
“Tina, as soon as he finishes
speaking you have to get up and run outside to Mita!”
“Wait…what? Why? Where’s Mita?”
“She’s standing outside waiting for
you!”
“Why do I have to run to her?”
“Because they’re going to be
running after you.”
She says this and gestures towards the section on the other
side of the aisle where all the men are sitting. When I look over I notice with
some concern that they’re all shuffling and twisting around and looking antsy.
I can tell that some of them are overhearing our conversation and don’t look
happy about it. What the hell is going on?!
I tried once more to say “Wait…what??” but just as I got the
words out the man up front finished speaking.
“Go Tina! Quick! Quick!” They all start yelling, no longer
trying to be discreet. They shove me into the aisle and as I start to speed
walk along I turn around looking at them for confirmation that I’m doing what
they want and catch a glimpse of the group of men charging at my heels. Holy
hell! What is going on?!
I get out the door and pick up my pace when I see Mita
standing some twenty feet away with a dish in her hand, perched on a hill like
Vana White. I make a beeline towards her and manage to get to her first. She
then hands me the dish, which is mounded up with all sorts of holiday type
food, and as she does so I notice all the men that were seemingly seconds away
from a tackle cut their momentum and slink away looking dejected. The women
just making their way out the door all cheered. Then everyone went back to
being normal and I was left standing there with a mountain of food completely
lost and having a heart attack.
Assuming that the plate of food was mine for whatever reason
(though I’ve learned not to assume much in Fiji), I began to make my way home.
On the way, I was stopped by an old man who told me a bit sternly that that
plate was mine and that I had to take it to America. At first I thought he
meant with the food on it but either way I just nodded and agreed with him – of
course that’s what I was planning to do all along.
I was called over to my friend’s house for lunch so I brought the giant dish of food to share hoping to ask my friend about it. When I
broached the topic trying to convey my confusion, she explained it to me in a
‘duh why don’t you know this’ sort of manner:
“Tina, don’t you know Merelita?”
“Yeah, I suppose.”
“It’s her newborn’s first church
service.”
“Ok…”
“Us Fijians are like that Tina.”
She was done talking having
explained it fully.
“Wait… what?”
But I didn’t get anything more coherent than that out of her.
It took me a while to figure it out on my own but I think I got it. My
assumption is that in Fiji,
there’s a tradition that if it’s your newborn’s first mass, then you have to
prepare a dish of nice food and give it to the first person to exit the church,
probably for good luck. I’m also assuming that the women just wanted me to get
out of the door and over to Mita first so that I would get the food even though
everyone else was eligible had they arrived first. That’s my best guess anyway.
It’s also the most baffled I’ve ever been in Fiji, though it wasn’t the first time
and certainly won’t be the last. It’s those ‘wait…what?’ moments that really
remind you sometimes that you are serving in a completely different culture
than your own and though it can be frustrating it can be thoroughly
entertaining as well!